Yasuda – Raw Fish from the Iron Fist

Me and Yasuda-san

Me and Yasuda – I’m just as ripped, right?

Several weeks ago I was lucky enough to score a reservation at the critically acclaimed sushi bar founded by Naomichi Yasuda.  Yasuda-san, originally from Japan, has recently returned after spending 25+ years in New York to try his luck in the Tokyo sushi scene. As the only time we could get was the day we arrived, we decided to push through the tiredness and go to our reservation.  A decision I will never regret – Yasuda was hands down the best sushi I have ever or will likely ever have again.  Yasuda-san was extremely friendly and jovial and kept referring to his sushi bar as a “Sushi Public House” – there were no rules except his request you eat your sushi quickly (as the flavor changes as it warms up) and try to eat it in one bite.

Eel at Yasuda

Yasuda completely changed my opinion on Eel.

Yasuda-san, a former kyokushin karate competitor, still practices and talked to us how his fighting stance and the concentration one gets in karate training is helpful in preparing sushi.  He took care to explain everything we were eating and went into so much detail sometimes even I had trouble figuring out what he was talking about sometimes.  This guy knows his sushi!  For instance he has developed his own method for the preservation of fresh fish.  He’s found that deep freezing fish to a specific temperature preserves both it’s taste and flavor.  While I’m no expert, the fish he told us he had previosuly frozen tasted like it had been caught that day.  He will also age certain fish to fully allow the flavors to develop.  Certain fish he states is not good if eaten the day it was caught,

The oyster from Yasuda

The oyster was the last thing Yasuda served and his personnel favorite

To Yasuda-san, the rice is the most important part of sushi preparation.  Which, if you think about it, makes a lot sense.  Anyone can go to the market and pick fresh fish but the flavor and amount of rice with the sushi completely changes the taste of the fish.    He went on to explain that even the pressure used to press the fish in a ball to form the nigiri is important.  Yasuda kept telling us no-one trained him how to make great sushi.  When asked how he became who he was today, he simply replied “By listening to my customer!”  Yasuda went on to claim there is no difference between Japanese sushi and American sushi.  He stated there are only two types of sushi: Good and bad.

Uni from Yasuda

Just one of the four types of Uni I tried at Yasuda!

Knowing I was a Uni fan, he was proud to tell me he had 4 different types of Uni that day – and WOW is all I can say.  This place was heaven.  I highly recommend anyone in Tokyo that enjoys sushi to go.  Both because of his style of explanation and the quality and intimacy of his sushi.  This place is nothing short of amazing and should be on any sushi aficionados list while traveling to Tokyo.

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Butting Heads with Swiss Cows

Numbered cows fight until only one remains

Numbered cows fight until only one remains

Staying at Au Club Alpin in Champex-Lac, Switzerland turned out to be one of my all time travel experiences to date. Champex-Lac is a sleepy, ski town that during the summertime receives little summer visitors. While we had anticipated just using the time to hike, we were unprepared for what happened next.

Our host at Au Club Alpin spoke fluent english, which was surprising given that almost no-one else in the town spoke anything but French. When we asked him if there is anything local we could experience he thought for a moment and then his eyes lit up and he belted out “Yes!! You must experience Combats de Reines, the Fighting Cows!!!”

Swiss Cows waiting for their chance to fight

Swiss Cows waiting for their chance to fight.

“What?!” We asked. “The Fighting Cows, very Swiss, very local” is all he replied. The then hurried to the kitchen and gave us some of this stinkiest, most pungent cheese I have ever tasted. All we could do was muster a half-hearted “Mmmm” as we tried to stomach the cheese while he explained just exactly what Combats de Reines was.

“The fighting cows,” as he went on, “are the female cows from farmers in the area. “The cows naturally stake out the best piece of grass in the pasture for their calves and fight off any other female cow that would try and take it.”

During the summer months they would gather their burliest females and throw them in a pasture to watch them fight. The cows would travel around to various towns and compete until one became the La Reine des Reines or the Queen of the Queens.

Lots of down time.  A majority of the time the cows were just happily eating grass.

Lots of down time. A majority of the time the cows were just happily eating grass.

Our host graciously began calling his friends and soon found out the cows were only a few towns away. Pointing out where it was on a map we were soon off to find the Fighting Queens.

Not knowing what quite to expect, I was imagining something grandeur –  an arena with throngs of cheering fans yelling and throwing roses.  I was more surprised to find just few dozen people lazily standing around a pasture drinking beers and watching cows eat grass.  Every once in a while a gentlemen would come, poke a cow with a stick to get them to fight.  The loser would be escorted out.  The pasture was framed by a glacier delicately hanging just a few thousand feet above.  Switzerland really is beautiful!

The throngs of crowds at Combats de Reines

The throngs of crowds at Combats de Reines.

Combats de Reines?” I asked someone.

They turned to me and seemed to be amazed two Americans were even at this.  To the Swiss Combats de Reines is a tradition dating back centuries that’s more of a way to pass time then something one should go out of the way to see ( Although now I will note serious prize money can be won and thus its also a source of income for the farmers).

They quickly questioned how we had stumbled upon such a spectacle, wondering if we had come specifically to Switzerland to watch the cow fights.  Satisfied that we were here merely by chance, they turned back to their conversation leaving us to take in one of the most random, fun, and unexpected journeys I’ve had while traveling.

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Photo of the Week – Fireworks

Fireworks in DC on July 4th 2013

I’ve been really getting into the RAW processing tool – DXO Optics. Reading their tutorial on how to adjust the program for fireworks, I was inspired to touch up a old photo I took back in 2013.

DXO does an amazing job in allowing the colors to “pop” in the photo without looking too processed.  In addition it helps reduce noise and correct for optics distortion – an amazing difference!  I highly recommend it for any photographer half-way serious about their photos.

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Photo of the Week – The Temple of the Three Windows at Machu Picchu

The Temple of the Three Windows - Machu Picchu
It is believed that the Temple of Three windows (previously five in total) represented the three mythological caves from which the Ayar brothers, children of the sun, stepped into the world.

Inside the remains of the temple is a carved stone with engravings that represent the three levels where the Inca civilization divided the Andean world: the sky spirituality (Hanan-Pacha), the Earth’s surface or the mundane (Kay-Pacha) and subsoil or inner life (Ukju-Pacha). Shards of smashed pottery were found beneath the temple perhaps indicating that pots would have been ritually broken here.

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Scooting Around With Cancer

Mom wearing her Minnie Mouse Ears

Mom wearing her Minnie Mouse Ears

In reading A Tale for Time Being by Ruth Ozeki, I was moved by the narrators desires to share stories about her great grandmother, a Buddhist nun who is more than one hundred years old.  While my mother is neither Buddhist or even close to a hundred years old, the book has inspired me to share stories of her life too (and possibly later on of my grandparents – we’ll see!).

My mom had a particularly tough time physically and emotionally during her breast cancer treatments.  Full of ups and downs, her treatments were taking their toll on her typically lively spirit.  She had been particularly looking forward to an upcoming Breast Cancer Walk.  My sister was on the race planning committee so my mom had extra determination to participate this year and she had asked me to join her.

Her fortunes continued to slide when the weekend before the race she fell and broke her ankle and was unable to participate in the cancer walk. Because of the pain, she had to get a scooter to help her wheel around the house.  This was especially frustrating for her as the scooter impacted the mobility of a woman who derives her joy by providing abundant hospitality.

Previous to her fall, I had given her some Minnie Mouse ears because one her cancer medications was derived from mouse genes (Herceptin for those curious – it literally saved her life).  As she was scooting around the kitchen trying to make lunch, I noticed the scooter had this squeaking noise whenever she would wheel by. I pointed out to her that with the squeaking, it sounded like she was really was turning into that mouse!

My mother, at her wits end with disappointment about the race and frustration about her situation, realized the humor and busted out into a much needed uncontrollable laughter. She found the Minnie Mouse ears I had given her and, for the rest of the day, wore them while pretending to be that mouse.

My mom has sense long recovered from both the break and cancer but I still tease her from time to time about the time she turned into a mouse.

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Step Back in Brewers Time with Cantillon

Cantillon is perhaps the best hidden gem inside the Brussels city limits.  Located an easy stroll from the Brussels-South railway station, Cantillon is a must see site for any beer lover visiting Brussels.  It’s so conveniently located near the train station that anyone with a 4 hour or more layover should be able to make the trip and grab some beer!

Getting to the Cantillon Brewery

As I mentioned Cantillon is an easy walk from the Brussels-South railway station.  Located at Rue Gheude 56, 1070 Anderlecht, Belgium, you can take the metro to Gare du Midi metro stop on Lines 2 and 6, a tram to the Lemonnier stop ( tram lines 3, 4, 31, or 32), or just taxi.

If you walk from the Metro keep an eye out as this is not the best area in Brussels.  As always while traveling keep your personal belongings (cell phones etc) out of site.

The Brewery Tour

Pouring a taste of Cantillon!

Pouring a taste of Cantillon!

The tour at Cantillon is self-guided.  While I was a little disappointed at first when they gave me the pamphlet and told me to go at it, I quickly realized how amazing this system was.  Cantillon is just as much a museum as it’s an active brewery so being able to go at your own pace was a nice change from other typical breweries.

There is so much to see and explore in this small brewery that I found myself taking a lot longer then I have at other brewery tours.  This, hands down, was one of the best tours I have ever done.

The tour also includes some samples of the beer itself – so overall its a tour worth doing!

The Beer

The beer selection at the Cantillon Brewery is amazing - notice the Fou'Foune!!

The beer selection at Cantillon is amazing – notice the Fou’Foune and Lou Pepe!!

What can not be said about Cantillon beer?  It’s amazing!  For someone who has never tried a sour beer before I challenge you to try.  Those that love wines will adore them as they are typically aged in chardonnay or red wine barrels.

The beers will have complexity and notes not seen in other styles of beers.  The glasses used to taste a sour beer resemble wine glasses more then beer glasses.

Cantillon is unique that they only brew in the fall and early spring because they want to use the naturally cool air to cool down the beer during the brewing process.  This allows things such as the local pollens to be incorporated into the beer that gives it a unique flavor not found even among other sours.

In fact they take their brewing so seriously they do not use any chemicals at all in or around the brewery – even pesticides (They are certified Organic)!  When touring we were asked to not disturb the cobwebs as that was their natural pesticide.

Cantillon is probably the definitive source of sour beers and anyone visiting Brussels would be foolish to not visit such a interesting brewery in the heart of the city.

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